The Basics

First off, we'll discuss a daily skin care routine, and then move on to do it yourself facials.

Everyone needs to use eye makeup remover, cleanser, exfoliator, toner, eye cream, and moisturizer.

Eye Makeup Remover: This is very important, especially for those who wear waterproof makeup.  You need to remove the eye makeup before you cleanse your face.  Why? because your face cleanser is not going to take it all off, leaving the skin vulnerable to getting clogged up with residue of your makeup.  The skin around the eye area is more delicate and much different than the rest of your face, thus it needs it own cleanser.

My favorite removers: Pevonia Eye Make-Up Remover and La Roche Posay Toleriane Eye Make-Up Remover

How To: Put some remover on a cotton ball or pad and wipe gently away from the eye until all the makeup is gone.  The Key is very gentle movements so you don't cause small bleeding under the skin, which makes dark circles appear worse.

Cleanser: Most people should use a cream cleanser.  Milk cleansers are good too, but many people feel they don't suffice our North American idea of how a clean face should feel.  That doesn't mean they don't work, it just means a lot of people don't think they work.  Cream cleansers wash away dirt, debris, makeup and excess oil without leaving the skin feeling parched.  Gel cleansers contain a lot of alcohol which I don't usually recommend, unless you are a teenager and experiencing very overactive oil glands.  

My favorite cream cleanser:  

Sensitive Skin: Darphin Intral Cleansing Milk which is calming and soothing, but removes makeup and impurities. 

Oily Acne Skin: Darphin Purifying Foam Gel

Acne Skin: Biotherm Acnopur Purifying Foam Original  

Dry Skin: Biotherm Biosource Foaming Softening Cleansing Water (Dry Skin)   

Normal/combo Skin: Clarins One-Step Facial Cleanser

How To: You should wet your face, put a small amount of cleanser in your palm (a lot of people use way too much, the better quality product, the less you need to use).  I use about a nickel size amount of product.  Add a little water in your hand and rub it to get a foamy consistency.  Don't forget to clean your neck and chest.  These parts are just as exposed to the elements and pollution as your face.  If you wear a lot of makeup or waterproof makeup, it is okay to cleanse twice in a row, just don't over scrub.

Exfoliator: There are two types of exfoliator: Chemical and Mechanical.  Chemical exfoliators use AHA's (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), glyocolic acid etc.  These acids work to dissolve the glue that still holds the dead skin cells together, making it easy to wash them away.  These are beneficial to anti-aging, acne, and oily skin.  Anyone can use a chemical exfoliant however those who have sensitive skin may find them too irritating and should be under a dermatologist or esthetician's care until they know the skin will react.

Mechanical Exfoliants are those with little round beads, crushed up shells etc.  The products with the synthetic rounds beads are the best to use.  In school we used the type that had crushed shells etc. and we applied to a sheet of glass.  It really scratched the hell out of that piece of glass, whereas the one with the round beads did not.   The mechanical scrubs are intended to slough off dead skin, not scratch and damage it.

You should need to exfoliate once or twice a week.  More than that and you will be causing damage to the skin.  (Don't forget neck and chest).

My favorites: Gemology Face Scrub and Dermalogica Skin Prep Scrub

How to: wet the face, put a small amount of product in your hand, add water to foam it up.  Scrub gently in upward circles or strokes (that is the best way to get under the cells of the skin).  Scrubbing too hard can lead to skin damage, sensitivity, and even scarring.  Be sure to rinse thoroughly.

Toner: I am really sick of hearing people say "You don't need toner, it's just a money grab!"  That statement could not be any more wrong.  Quality is very important when it comes to toner.  Look for alcohol free toner.  It softens the skin and restores balance. Toner lasts a long time so invest in a good one.

Toner is used immediately after cleansing as it restores the acid mantle of the skin that is compromised by cleansing, and also restores the Ph Balance of the skin.  Toner prepares the skin for moisturizer, aiding it to penetrate further and achieve all the benefits of lotion.  Toner also keeps the skin smooth and even in color.

My favorite alcohol free toners: Anthony Logistics Alcohol-Free Toner, Elizabeth Arden Hydra Splash Alcohol Free Toner (great for sensitive and dry skin) and Decleor Matifying Lotion (Great for oily skin)

How To: immediately after cleansing, add toner to cotton ball or pad and use upward strokes.  Don't forget your neck and chest.

Eye Cream: Eye cream is a must-use in my opinion.  Eye creams help remove dark circles, they treat the delicate skin around the eyes (as regular moisturizers cannot usually penetrate the area.  If you start using eye in your 20's you will not show signs of aging around the eyes as early as someone who didn't use eye cream.  In it anti-aging forms, it can erase superficial lines, and slow the process of aging.  Keep in mind, no cream can permanently reverse the signs of aging, but is can slow the process.  Choose and eye cream based on your needs.

My Favorites: Obagi ELASTIderm Night Eye Cream and Elizabeth Arden Intervene Eye Pause and Effect Moisture Eye Cream

How to: after toning, use a small amount of eye cream under, around and on top of your eyes.  A bottle of eye cream should last you a good part of the year, so don't use too much.

Moisturizer:  It is very important to always apply moisturizer after you cleanse.  You have to restore the fluid lost during the cleansing process.

 If you have dry skin, you need a moisturizer with some oil in it.  Please remember that not all oil is bad and clogs pores.  Good quality products contain safe oils that will not lead to breakout.  Best Product: Darphin Hydraskin Rich  (for combination/oily skin)

If you have dehydrated skin, you need water.  A water based product made for dehydration is what you need, and also try to add more water in your diet. Best Product: Korres Watercress Potent Moisturizer

If you have Normal skin, you require a good cleanser especially if you wear makeup, and a light moisturizer with vitamins to help maintain your skin's health.  Best Product: Cellex-C Sea Silk Oil-Free Moisturizer.

If you have combination skin, you should use a cleanser for normal skin, and and a balancing light weight  moisturizer for normal/combination.  Best Product: Sundari Neem & Avocado Balancing Moisturizer for Normal to Combination Skin

Mature skin is where we tend to lose oil.  However, many of the anti-aging products are made for mature skin lacking oil.  Some are made for those who lack water, so be sure to determine with the help of an esthetician or dermatologist what your condition is, and then select products appropriately Best Product: AHAVA Sun Protection Anti Aging Moisturizer SPF 15

If you have sensitive skin, you need a product that is soothing and calming and usually an emollient cream will help protect your thin skin.  Best Product: Neova R2 Lotion Intermediate by ProCyte

If you have acne skin or oily skin you'll need something that controls shine and grease and keeps the pores clear, usually with an acne treatment in it.  Best Product: Korres Pomegranate Balancing Moisturizer

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