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Hair Removal 101 

From tweezing to shaving, waving to laser, unwanted hair can be the bane of our existence.  It’s estimated that we spend $4 billion a year in the U.S. on hair removal services and products.

Electrolysis, laser and photo light removal are deemed “permanent” hair removal treatments.  However, I must tell you that for a permanent outcome the hair bulb must be destroyed completely.  That isn’t always the case, though many of these treatments achieve this over time with multiple treatments.  Electrolysis can be done by an esthetician, but laser and photo light removal should be done a licensed medical practitioner.  Be sure to know the credentials of the person who will actually be doing the procedure.  Lately there has been an influx of “medispas” that are owned by physicians, but the procedures are done by un-licensed employees.  It can be quire harmful and can lead to severe scarring if done incorrectly. 

Electrolysis is permanent with a series of sessions.  Electrolysis is the insertion of a needle or needles into the hair follicle and then an very mild electric current is sent down the needle to destroy the hair bulb.  

There are three types of electrolysis: galvanic, which uses a direct current, thermolysis, which uses a high frequency current, and the blend which uses both.  This is a very basic overview.  The amount of treatments needed varies between individuals, so you won’t be guaranteed a particular amount of time or sessions.  As long as you are seeing a marked improvement with each session then I would stick with it.  If not, I would find a different person to do it, as the current practitioner may be doing it incorrectly.

The most common hair removal practices are temporary.  Shaving waxing, and depilatories being the most common.

 

Waxing is generally preferred because once you get going you be hair free for weeks and weeks.  There are two types of wax, hard and soft.  Hard wax doesn’t use a strip, it is left on the skin to slightly harden and is then pulled off.  Soft wax is applied and a cotton or muslin strip is placed over the wax and pulled off.  Some may argue one is better than the other but I think they are equally effective, you may see a difference depending on how coarse your hair is.  Really thick, or super curly hair may notice that hard wax is better.  The key to waxing is going at the proper times in the beginning so you can get all hair re-growing at the same rate within a few treatments.  It’s also clear, that waxing over time can make hair grow in more sparse for many people. 

Depilatories are generally a caustic alkaline that dissolves the hair.  I find a lot of people claim that ingrown hairs are more common with depilatories.  There is also the smell factor to consider, you’re basically melting your hair, so no matter how nice the product smells in the bottle, once it starts working it stinks.  I find the part of dissolving hair a little bit scary, so I urge you to always follow the manufacturers directions and test patch an area before slathering it all over.  I have seen burns and rashes from depilatories.

As with all hair removal, exfoliation occurs, so try to give your skin a rest from hard scrubbing before and after.  Proper hydration is also important, so follow up with a good moisturizer.  If you tend to get pimples,  white heads and/or ingrown hairs after waxing or tweezing I suggest you cleanse the area really well before you start.   If you are prone to ingrown hairs there are many products available in spas and BSO's to treat ingrown hairs.

Tweezing is a common technique for eyebrows, but it’s really hard to tweeze anywhere else.  Some people  tweeze their chins and lips, but I recommend waxing or threading if you don’t have patience.  When tweezing, pull the hair out in the direction it is growing.  Tweezing “against the grain” can cause the hair to break before it is pulled out leaving it visible and usually impossible to pluck until it grows again. 

Threading is another hair removal treatment found in salons.  Some find it more precise than waxing and I’ve also heard that is less painful to some.  Threading is when cotton thread is rolled across the skin, entwining the hairs causing them to pull out.  Threading is a great alternative to waxing, especially if you are allergic or sensitive to wax.

No matter what technique you use, the before and after care is very important.  Cleanse the skin first, and hydrate afterward.

 

 

Types of Hair Removal Summary

Shaving

Shaving causes two key effects: 1. You are exfoliating the skin, 2. You are cutting the hair at the furthest available surface in a straight edge.

Shaven hair is more prone to ingrown hairs, and small infections.  This is because the hair is cut straight and has no point to break through the skin.  The hair then grows below the surface of the skin and begins to spiral.  From this point it becomes a bump and may end up infected. 

Waxing

Warm wax is spread on the skin and pulled of in a quick motion from the root.  Waxing is not advised for a man’s beard, but some men have no difficulty getting their faces waxed.  Coarse hair is more painful than fine hair to wax, but each individual will react differently to the waxing process.  Always follow the directions when waxing to minimize the risk of skin damage.

Electrolysis

Electrolysis is done by inserting a needle that is hooked up to an electrical current.  The needle is inserted into the root or base of the hair and burns it away.  With proper treatment electrolysis is a permanent means of hair removal.  It can be a lengthy and costly process and requires a full commitment on your part in order to achieve the maximum results.

Laser

Laser treatments are flooding the market now, and are often less painful and faster than electrolysis, but are more costly and still requires a commitment and a trained professional.  I do not specialize in laser treatments, so I would advise you to take the same steps in choosing a laser professional as you would any other medical specialist. You have to be a Doctor by law in the US and Canada to operate a laser.

Depilatories

There are also bleaches and depilatories.  Bleaches lighten the hair but don’t remove it, while depilatories have an active chemical that dissolves or burns the hair and is then rinsed away with water.  Depilatories last days longer than shaving because the hair is dissolved below the skin’s surface, but there are many people, including myself, who react severely to depilatories (such as Nair) and should be used with caution.  If you react severely, consult your doctor.  They are not recommended to be used on the face (though some packages will tell you that it’s okay.) I disagree.  I personally do not condone the use of depilatories at all.  

 

 

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