Makeup Basics 
Foundation Basics
Definition:
(From Milady’s Text) foundation is a base or protective film applied
before makeup and/or powder. Foundation
evens out skin tone and color, conceals imperfections in the skin and
protects the skin from the outside elements of climate, dirt and
pollution.
Liquids,
sticks, cream to powder and tinted moisturizers are the most popular
choices for foundation.
Always
start with clean hands, clean face and clean tools.
I like
to use makeup sponges, but using your fingertips is just as effective.
Sponges make blending easy and cleaning up any messes are simple.
Fingertip application is known to be a lighter way of applying
foundation. The key no matter
how you choose to apply, is blend! Blend! Blend!
It has to be even and well blended.
Always
match foundation to the jaw line and apply in natural light to prevent
mask effects.
My
Favorite Foundation Brands are:
Bobbi Brown
Chanel
Clinique
Lancome
Yves Saint Laurent
Shiseido The Makeup
How to Choose a Foundation
Foundation
should always perfectly match and blend with your skin tone.
Sometimes shades are too orange or too pink, or not dark enough
(for people of color). Always
test foundation on clean skin that has no makeup on it.
Test along your jaw line and be sure it blends with above and below
the jaw. Don’t be afraid to
tell the cosmetician you want to go outside and see what it looks like in
the sunlight. Wear it for at
least 30 minutes before you buy it. Cosmetics
can change color as they settle or mix with oxygen, and they can cause an
allergic reaction that may not happen immediately. This doesn’t guarantee that you won’t react to it later,
but it will decrease your chance of reacting.
*Tip: If
you have acne or lots of clogged pores try to use a sheer foundation or a
tinted moisturizer with salicylic acid in it.
This will help heal the blemishes and prevent more breakouts.
Caking foundation on top of a blemish actually makes it look worse
and more prominent, than if you lightly cover it.
Removing makeup each night is vital to healthy skin.
There
are some new products on the market now such as airbrush foundation (sold
in spray cans) and mousse textured foundation and blushes.
All of which have their place.
Air spray foundations are generally sheer and even out tone really
well. Mousse foundations and
blushes go on thick and require pretty good blending techniques.
Play with your cosmetics on the weekend when you’re not going
out. Or have a makeup party
with your girlfriends to practice. You
can help each other with application and color choice.
Concealer Basics
Concealer
is used to cove blemishes and discolorations and may be applied before or
after foundation. It should
only be a shade lighter than your skin.
For blemishes I like to apply concealer before foundation, for
eyes, I like to apply it afterward so it blends well and helps eye shadow
stick better.
My Fav concealers
are:
Anna Sui Stick Concealer # 60
Bobbi Brown Blemish Cover Stick Deep Almond
Bobbi Brown Corrector Bisque
Face Powders
Powder
adds a matte finish to the face. Powder
comes in loose or pressed forms. Lighter
coverage is best with loose powder applied with a very large brush. Pressed powder is applied with a sponge or pad and gives
heavier coverage.
I always
apply my powder very last. Mistakes
and messes are easily cleaned up before powder sets the foundation, and it
can help blend if you’ve added too much cheek color.
My Fav Powders
are:
Bobbi Brown Pressed Powder Basic Brown
Bobbi Brown Sheer Finish Loose Powder Basic Brown
Bobbi Brown Sheer Finish Pressed Powder Basic Brown
Eye Shadow Basics
Eye
shadow accentuates and contours the eyes.
Eye
shadows come in stick, cream, pressed and loose powders.
They also come in finishes such as matte, frost, shimmery and dewy.
Everyone
has their preferences and I think every type of formula has its place and
suits different people. I
personally prefer powder shadows. They
suit most skin types and are easy to apply.
I have a problem with the mid-afternoon creasing ad have had
horrible luck with creamy eye shadows.
Don’t
match your eye shadow to your eye color, it creates a flat field of color
instead of adding expression. Use
a contrasting color to enhance the eyes.
Dark
colors make the iris appear lighter while lighter shades make the iris
appear deeper.
You can
pretty much wear any color you wish, it’s the tone that matters. You can
wear trendy shades just choose lighter or deeper versions of any given
color that best suits your skin, hair and eyes.
The
colors are classified as highlighters, bases and contour colors.
Milday’s
Text describes them like this:
A
highlighter color is lighter than the skin tone and may have any finish. Popular choices include matte or shimmer.
These highlight areas such as just underneath the brow bone or a
dab of shimmer in the corner of the eye.
A light color such as white, makes an area appear larger.
A base
color is generally a medium tone that is close to your skin tone.
It is used to even out the skin tone on the eye.
It is often applied all over the lid and brow bone, before other
colors are applied, thus providing a smooth surface for the blending of
other colors. When used this
way, it is best to use a matte finish.
A
contour color is a color in any finish that is deeper and darker than your
skin tone. It is applied to
minimize a specific area, to create contour in a crease, or to define the
lash line.
Apply
color close to the lashes and the upper eyelid, sweeping the color
slightly upward and out ward. Blend
to achieve the desired effect, more
than on color is an amazing way to enhance eyes, just remember to blend
well!!
Click
Here for a massive list of Eye Shadow
Eye Liner Basics
Use
liner go outline and emphasize the eyes.
It comes in tons of colors, pencils, liquid, pressed and even
felt-tipped pen form. You can
easily create a line on the lid close to the lashes to make the eyes
appear larger and the lashes fuller.
Try to push liner right into the roots of the lashes.
Many
people go with basic black or brown and that is great.
Other colors can add more individuality and uniqueness, but you
should feel comfortable with the basics before you set out on trying
greens and purples.
Practice
having a steady hand and always use a sharp liner.
Use gentle pressure and short strokes for the neatest lines.
When using powders, wetting the brush a bit before dipping will
give you a dramatic look for evening.
It is helpful to gently pull the skin taut, from right below the
eyebrow up, to ensure smooth application.
My
Favorite eyeliners are:
Yves Saint Laurent Eyeliner Moire No.1
Shiseido The Makeup - Eyeliner Pencil 1 Black
Eyebrow Color
Pencils
and shadows add color and shape to the eyebrows.
You can use brow color to correct their shape, darken them and fill
in sparse areas.
I prefer
powder in the brow because it looks more natural and is easier to use. Choose a color a little lighter than the natural color of
your brows.
Use soft
and short strokes and blend well. You
can use a clean Q-tip to help blend the lines.
The
best brow brush:
Bobbi Brown Eye Brow Brush Short Handle
The
Best Pencil:
Shiseido The Makeup- Eye Brow Pencil #1 Natural Black
Mascara
Mascara
darkens, defines and thickens the lashes.
It comes in so many formulas now it can be hard to choose.
I like black, waterproof, volumizing formulas. They pretty much suit everyone.
But you should play around with a few to find what works best for
you.
Use your
eyelash curlers! These are
great, they give curl and definition to the lashes.
Position curlers, squeeze for a few seconds and then put on
mascara.
My
Fav Mascaras:
BADgal lash - black mascara
get bent lash - mascara
Shiseido The Makeup - Advanced Volume Mascara AV1 Black
Eye
Lash Curlers:
Seki Edge Traditional Metal Eyelash Curler SE-42
Blush Basics
Cheek
color comes in stick, cream, liquid, dry (pressed), loose, and now mousse
whipped creams.
Blush
gives a natural-looking glow to the face.
(From
Milady’s Text)
When
choosing cheek color consider the following:
-
Cream or gel cheek colors
resemble cream foundation and are generally preferred for dry and normal
skin. Depending on the
formulation, blush is usually applied with a brush or a cotton puff.
-
Liquid cheek color blends
well and is suitable for all skin types.
-
Dry (pressed) cheek color
imparts a matte finish and is the most widely used.
-
Loose powder cheek color
comes in a variety of shades.
Blend
the color so that it fades softly into the foundation.
Don’t
over use blush. A light cheek
color on the apples of the cheek compliments majority of people.
Fair skin should choose from rose colors and light peaches, medium
skin can go peachy and coral, dark skins (oh you’re so lucky!), can wear
mauves, berry shades and brilliant pinks.
My
Favorite Blushes:
Fair
Skin:
i.d. bareMinerals Face Color Clear Radiance
Bobbi Brown Blush French Pink
Medium
Skin:
Bobbi Brown Blush Desert
Bobbi Brown Blush Rose
Bobbi Brown Blush Nectar
Dark
Skin:
Bobbi Brown Blush Currant
Bobbi Brown Blush Plum
Bobbi Brown Blush Spice
Lip Color Basics
Whatever
your choice, make sure its blended, and it suits you.
Trends come and go, but the pictures your friends have of you will
be around forever.
Try
different colors and different formulations.
Bring a friend you trust with you when shopping for colors.
Glosses
are more natural looking, but they have the sticky factor to consider.
Lip
Sticks are more opaque and add more color, but there are so many
variations, from pure pigment, to glossy, to shimmery and many more.
I prefer
the basic lipstick because I can’t stand sticky stuff on my lips, but
for most people gloss is the safest when trying out colors.
Your lip
liner should match the lip color you choose.
Gone are the days of light lipstick and dark liner.
To give more color to a gloss and have color last longer, fill in
lips with the liner first and then cover with gloss. When your gloss comes off, you’ll still have a stain of
color that will last you until you can reapply.
Many
companies are making lipsticks easier to choose because they make
translucent colors that suit a variety of tones and they categorize them
based on fair, medium and dark skin tones.
It’s easy you just select from the colors made for your skin
tone.
My
Favorite Lip colors
Fair
Skin:
Anna Sui Lip Color Collection
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Mango
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Nude
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Toasted Pink
Medium
Skin:
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Scarlet
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Carnation
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Golden Brown
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Plumberry
Dark
Skin:
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Burgundy
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Redwood
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Slopes
Bobbi Brown Lip Color Wine
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